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Brilliant Europe

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Jewels from the European courts - amongst those the Drake jewel - are on show in Brussels as part of Europalia 2007

As well as being decorative, jewels symbolise status, wealth and power. The great European dynasties of the past surrounded themselves with ever more splendour, signifying this power.

The exhibition shows how royalty tried to build up as much political influence as possible in the form of brilliant jewels. Marriages between princes and princesses were standard moves on the diplomatic chessboard. Royal children married simply for reasons of state, and jewels were frequently offered during negotiations. In addition to politics through marriage, a display of princely wealth was part of the game of one-upmanship played on other rulers and their emissaries.

Nearly all the items exhibited, both jewels and portraits, were commissioned by the royal houses of Europe. Many jewels are also full of history. Some of these belonged to the treasure of Charles the Stout, Duke of Burgundy, and were looted by his enemies during various campaigns. The "Drake" jewel was presented by Queen Elizabeth I of England to her admiral Sir Francis Drake for his pirate activities and his contribution to the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588. In 1870, Empress Eugénie of France presented a jewel to Lady Burgoyne when she helped the empress to escape to England after the collapse of the French Second Empire. The exhibition also shows the development of the jeweller's craft, which was linked to general movements in art: for example, there are typical renaissance jewels, mannerist ornaments, baroque jewels and romantic gems.

The highlight of the "Brilliant Europe" exhibition are however the diamond- and gem-encrusted jewels of the absolutist Prussian, French and Portuguese courts of the 18th century. Magnificent pieces from the personal jewellery collections of August the Strong, Elector of Saxony, and decorations studded with richly-coloured gems from Portugal's overseas colonies worn by the Portuguese nobility have been specially sent to Brussels.

The exhibition includes loans from the Louvre of Paris, the Victoria and Albert Museum of London, the Grünes Gewölbe of Dresden, the Schmuckmuseum of Pforzheim, Het Loo royal Palace of the Netherlands, the National Museum of Budapest, the royal collections of Palacio Nácional da Ajuda of Lisbon, the Museo degli Argenti in Palazzo Pitti of Florence and other leading museums, not forgetting Belgium's own collections. Magnificent pieces are also on loan from noble private collections, on public display for the first time.

Where: ING Cultural Centre, Place Royale/Koningsplein 6, 1000 Brussels.

When: 24 October 2007 to 17 February 2008.

Karen Schousboe - 19. november 2007

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