As a specialist on Middle Age cuisine, Archaeologist Bi Skaarup shares her observations on food preparation and consumption from the Middle Ages up to now, giving us valuable information about ways of life.
Lent is a season with medieval roots, a time for purification of the soul and genuine celebration before and after. Bi Skaarup claims that medieval people had a much better understanding of the fact that life is a paradox, than we do today.
- I can see that their life involved quiet and sombre devotion as well as colourful and explosive feasts. Perhaps our forefathers can remind us of the fact that life is a paradox. We often live as if every day is a feast, but I believe we should do as in the medieval times by differentiating between everyday life and real celebrations, thereby giving each of them more character.
People passion for food
Bi Skaarup was the first Danish archaeologist to specialize in historical food some thirty years ago. From a culture-historical perspective, people used to spend most of their time and efforts procuring and preparing food. Today most of us just visit the local grocer or supermarket and get the food we need easily and quickly. Even though it doesn't require much effort any longer, food still has our interest. Just think of the amount of cookbooks and TV-programs on cooking, or how often people substitute their kitchen with a newer model. Food and meals are still important - and as in the Middle Ages our food and meals reveal who we are.
- I think the Danish record on food spending is catastrophic. On an average we only spend 11% of our income on food; of this 7% is junk food. In the Mediterranean countries they spend up to 30% of their wages on food, and they are economically well off today as in the Nordic countries. In all other areas of life we seek quality, but it is as if we Danes are ascetics with regards to food. It's almost naughty to spend money on food or tender-loving care when preparing a meal. There is an abundance of just about everything in our society, so why not have a bit less, but better quality and spoil our loved ones and us? For me preparing food is an act of love.
Bi Skaarup has spent much of her career digging and identifying food scraps, as well as studying old kitchens, recipes and descriptions of royal feasts. Besides this she loves to experiment with food preparation trying to do it much the way as they did in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, often together with professional cooks. Cooks are often impressed with the brilliant techniques and combinations they used. Besides this she prepares food for special events at some of Denmark's old castles such as Hamlet's renaissance Kronborg or medieval Koldinghus.
De Arte Coquinaria
Last year Bi Skaarup and her husband resigned from their positions at "The Museum of Copenhagen" and bought an old farm Elysium on the southern island Falster. They are now devoted to their herb and vegetable gardens, animals and have groups of 6-8 persons participate in workshops on the importance of food and meals today and in the past.
- I want De Arte Coquinaria to be a refuge with stories about daily food and cuisine in the past and today. But the participants won't just be sitting and listening to me lecture. They will also be sent out into the garden to collect vegetables and herbs, scratch a pig behind its ear and find new-laid eggs. After we have gathered all the ingredients, we will prepare the food together much the same way as our ancestors. When dinner is ready we will gather around a well-provided table and deserve the rewards of an entire day flavoured with spices, stories and sensuality.
Food has many social and almost religious connotations.
- Food is trivial if it isn't associated with a meal, then it's basically just a feeding. In many parts of the world people would go out and greet a person with a well-filled mug. Why, you might ask. Once they had had a drink together, then they were fraternised and the guest could be invited inside. In some remote places it's still like that, and I find this a beautiful gesture. I would like to share these many aspects and joys surrounding food and eating together.
Related articles
Lent, after carnival and before Easter
Middle Ages, exotic spices
Renaissance, orangery, vegetables and four czar children
Dining with the wealthy, feasting together in the Middle Ages and Renaissance
Related information
De Arte Coquinaria,
www.historiskmad.dk, only in Danish
Kronborg Castle,
www.kronborgcastle.com/
Museum of Copenhagen,
www.bymuseum.dk/uk/default.asp Kolding Castle,
www.koldinghus.dk/Default.aspx?ID=2268Birgit O'Sullivan
- 12. februar 2007
Read more